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Maine

FEDCO
P.O. Box 520, Waterville, ME 04903-0520
(207) 873-7333; fax (207) 872-8317
CR. Lawn, founder

Seeds, Trees, shrubs, perennials, Bulbs and tubers
Worker/customer plant cooperative. Office hours from December through April, Monday to Friday, 9:30-5; irregularly the rest of the year. Three catalogs annually, $3. Mail order only. Strict order deadlines. Discounts on bulk orders. Annual spring tree sale. Books.

Fedco is a Maine-based worker/customer plant cooperative with refreshingly old-fashioned values, bound to warm the heart of the most world-weary cynic. Fedco sells vegetable and flower seeds, bulbs, tubers, trees, and nursery stock at low prices by mail order. It encourages customers to form buying coopera­tives to secure even greater bulk discounts. It operates according to a practical rural philosophy, reminiscent of Virgil’s Georgics, espousing the nobility of fanning. Literary quotations and inspiring stories of plant breeders are interspersed with catalog listings. Fedco’s newsprint catalogs would seem relics of the 19th century, prices included, if not for the witty advertising copy, hilarious asides, and sight-gag illustrations taken from old garden catalogs. We deeply suspect founder C.R. Lawn, a trained lawyer rejoicing in the occupation of farmer, of indulging a weakness for sick puns during catalog season.

The Fedco Seeds catalog is a conflation of several mail-order categories into a single mailing: Fedco Seeds, Moose Tubers, and Organic Growers Supply. The Fedco Seeds section offers vegetable and flower seeds selected for proven performance in cold-climate gardening (Zone 4). A special focus is on the heirloom seed program, whereby Fedco cooperates with Maine farmers to grow regional seeds such as dried beans and heirloom vegetables rarely offered by commercial growers. All seed is untreated, and absolutely no transgenic cultivars are offered. As to variety, “lettuce” (let us) point to excellent bean cultivars, “amazing” corn, tomatoes, greens, and other classic garden vegetables—open-pollinated and heirloom, some good for home gardeners, others for truck farmers. The list includes flower seeds for “fancy annuals and perennials,” mostly old-fashioned cottage garden plants. We like knowing where to find a 300-year-old sweet pea, heirloom black hollyhocks from Maine, and a neglected double impatiens from the Victorian era. The Moose Tubers section of the catalog offers certified seed potatoes, onion sets, sunchokes, and sweet potatoes, complete with handling instructions and quotations from Shakespeare. The Organic Growers Supply section offers cover crops, organic fertilizers, organic pest controls, books, tools, and garden supplies. Among the last, our favorite is the Flame Weeder, useful for immolating weed seedlings, “burning out webworms, and singeing the tops of meringues and cremes brulees.”

The Fedco Trees catalog is a descendant of its original tree catalog, originally for fruit, nut, and shade trees, now expanded to include ornamental trees, flowering shrubs, small fruits, bulbs, medicinal herbs, and perennial plant crowns. Since 1978, Fedco has been an admirable source of inexpensive hardy fruit trees, especially apples, flowering crabs, pears, and stone fruits. Fedco’s continuing search for old Maine apple varieties has turned up 15 Maine heirlooms; the most notable, called ‘Starkey’, was grafted from the last Starkey apple tree in Vassalboro, where the variety was discovered some 200 years ago. All Maine apples are being planted in an orchard in Unity at the headquarters of the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association (MOFGA), an organization allied closely with Fedco in origin and philosophy.

Another heirloom available for the first time in decades is the American chestnut, once the most prominent deciduous tree in the eastern United States; Fedco’s seedlings are made available through the American Chestnut Foundation, which is working to restore the tree. (The seedlings are blight-susceptible, but according to Fedco, “will probably thrive if there is no blight infection within a mile.”) The Fedco Trees catalog also offers cold-tolerant berries, grapes, and hops; roses and lilacs; underutilized fruiting shrubs such as elderberry, Allegheny serviceberry, and cornellan cherry: herbaceous perenni­als (including Japanese tree peonies); medicinal herbs used in traditional and Chinese medicine; and a few tender summer bulbs such as tuberous begonia and gladiolus. All trees come bare-root; plants may be mail-ordered or picked up at Fedco’s annual tree sale in Clinton. Maine. In early May, Fedco catalogs comprise some of the best reading material available to armchair gardeners with a taste for madcap humor. While Fedco Trees is slightly more sober reading than Fedco Seeds, both are full of visual puns and amusing literary gags. Among the seed descriptions alone, we noted antic ref­erences to Jurassic Park, the Russian space program, chess, Marvel Comics, Balkan politics, Johnny Most, and Alice in Wonderland. Fedco Seeds almost certainly has the craziest ordering system on earth. The catalog tells customers how to order, how not to order, and the right day of the week to order, depending on where you live. Order deadlines, like edicts from the Red Queen, are at once confusing and strict. Group seed purchasers can use Fedco’s “7% solution,” which provides individual packaging of component orders for 7 percent of the purchase price. Individual seed orders can be processed on Fedco’s Short-Form 1020-EZ, due by mid-March so as not to be mixed up with your federal tax return.

Other than the tree sale, a gardener’s only opportunity to meet Fedco’s endearing gaggle of eccentrics is to attend MOFGA’s Common Ground Fair, held annually in Unity, Maine, in early autumn.

Directions: Fedco is essentially a co-op warehouse staffed by fanners using a temperamental fax machine. Call for directions to the tree sale, held in early May.  

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JOHNNY’S SELECTED SEEDS
RR 1, P.O. Box 2580, Foss Hill Road, Albion, ME 049 10-9731
(207) 437-4301; fax (800) 437-4290
Rob Johnston Jr.

Seeds for vegetables, flowers, herbs and farm garden spring vegetables. Independent seed house, certified organic. Business hours January to May, Monday to Friday 8-7, Saturday 8-5;June through December, Monday to Friday 8:30-5. Fax 24 hours. Free catalog. Fax, Internet, and mail order. Retail store open year round, Monday to Saturday 8:30-5. Visitors welcome. AAS trial and display gardens. Workshops and tours. Annual open house. Vegetable flats in May. E-mail: homegar­den@Johnnyseeds.com. Web site: www.johnnyseeds.com.

Like anything grown from seed, Johnny’s Selected Seeds, according to its owner, “had the smallest of beginnings.” An independent Maine seed house that functions as the L.L. Bean of vegetable gardening, Johnny’s Selected Seeds, named for Johnny Appleseed, was started from scratch in 1973 by Rob Johnston Jr., a native of suburban Massachusetts whose grandfather liked to take him out on summer nights to, as he puts it, “listen to the corn grow.” In college, Johnston helped found a successful counterculture food cooperative in Amherst, Massachusetts, and engaged in communal truck farming in New Hampshire before starting a small import operation to secure hard-to-find Oriental vegetable seed. Johnny’s Selected Seeds has since prospered into an excellent organic source for more than 4,000 varieties of field-tested vegetable, herb, flower, and farm seeds.

Johnny’s operates out of a 25-acre farm in Albion, a central Maine agricultural community east of Waterville (population: 1,500), where it does just about everything that can be done with seed for 100,000 customers: researching, testing, importing, producing, storing, packaging, selling, and, in some cases, giving it away. The seed is guaranteed to be of high quality, and, as far as possible, organically grown and chemical-free. Johnny’s is not only a seed purveyor, but also a certified 40-acre organic farm that, in an almost-unheard-of throwback to 19th-century agricultural practice, actually produces some of its own seed (especially beans, melons, corn, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, squash, beets, and rutabagas). Founder Johnston continues to function as plant breeder, director of research and production, and chairman of the board, In addition to such outside titles as president of the Maine Organic Farming and Gardening Association (MOFGA), listed member of the Seed Savers Exchange, and, since 1982, official Vegetable Judge for All-America Selections (AAS), which determines the year’s best new seed varieties.

Doing descriptive justice to Johnny’s vast seed list would be an exhausting undertaking; instead, we recommend readers to seek out Johnny’s free, illus­trated, no-nonsense catalog, which doubles as a sourcebook for gardeners and an energizing tonic against the winter blahs. Notable among its vegetable seeds are Johnston’s top- 10 favorites, which include frost-tolerant red romaine lettuce, ‘All Yellow’ Swiss chard, bicolor summer squash, ‘Tendersweet’ cabbage, and, for Tex-Mex freaks, an Anaheim-style chili adapted to northern gardens. Johnston’s own hybridizing efforts have attracted AAS awards for ‘Baby Bear’ pumpkin, ‘Juliet’ plum cluster tomato, and ‘Bright Lights’ Swiss chard (a brilliant, multicolored vegetable that easily works as an ornamental annual). Johnston’s strong interest in superior heirloom seeds is reflected in wonderful old-fashioned vegetables for short-season gardens, including vintage tomatoes, trout beans from Maine’s Passamaquoddy tribe, and an antique Scottish kidney bean obtained from an elderly gentleman on North Haven Island. We hear rave reviews for the wild arugula and the tiny, intense raisin tomatoes derived from the original wild tomatoes of eastern Mexico. Vegetable seeds also include cool-weather varieties that can be planted late and harvested in fall and winter, such as Brussels sprouts, corn salad, kale, and collards.

Among the flower seeds are sunflowers, salvias, and sweet peas; many-colored salpiglossis; creamy angel’s-trumpet; plumed celosia, and red-hot poker. We could go on about the decorative annuals, vines, and grasses; the everlastings and wildflowers; the medicinal and culinary herbs; not to mention the grains, green manures, salad sprouts, potato tubers ... but that would take the fun out of it. Peruse the catalog, make your lists, and plan your own garden, real or imagined. For literary gardeners, Johnny’s offers a good selection of garden books. For practical souls, there are good supplies for home and market gardens, including sound gardening tools and an effective cold frame designed by Maine author/educator Eliot Coleman.

Visitors are welcome at Johnny’s organic farm, whose barns (now adminis­trative offices) and large building (housing the retail store, packing depart­ment, and seed lab) are surrounded by fascinating AAS trial gardens for more than 3,500 vegetables and flowers. The Albion farm is set amid a rolling landscape of spare antique farms with peeling paint; above a blue distance, clouds accumulate like sheep on summer afternoons. Johnston is in contact with dozens of breeders in different countries, who send flower and vegetable seed for the trial and breeding gardens; here one can glimpse the future of American vegetable and flower beds. (Occasionally, home gardeners are given a chance to participate in Johnny’s experimental seed and taste trials.)

The beautiful herb gardens are overseen by Janicka Eckert, now Mrs. Johnston. Johnny’s greenhouses are loaded with seedlings for sale in May, attracting vegetable lovers far and wide; later visitors may attend tours, workshops, and an annual open house.

For all its rural roots, Johnny’s is a sophisticated independent seed house, employing nearly 100 staff at the height of the season. Demonstrating its far-flung connections are wooden directional signs posted outside the seed store, droll indicators of the number of miles to seed suppliers: Burpee, 509; Gurney, 1,804; Shepherd’s, 3,372:Tozer (London), 3,345; Starke-Ayers (Cape Town), 8,104; East West (Bangkok), 11,008; and Johnny’s, 0.

Directions: From Augusta, follow Route 202/9 east to Albion, and turn left in town at the L+M Market onto the Albion- Winslow Road. After 3.25 miles, turn left onto Foss Hill Road (signposted), and Johnny’s is 0.5 miles on your right.

From 1-95, take exit 33/Waterville and follow Route 137 across the Kennebec River Turn right at the first set of lights (still Route 137), and turn left at the second set of lights (still Route 137). In 0.25 mile, up the hill, turn left after the bank onto Garland Road. In 3.5 miles, turn right onto the Albion- Winslow Road. Drive 4.5 miles and turn right onto Foss Hill Road; Johnny’s is 0.5 mile on your right.

Nearby attractions: The Heirloom Seed Project, 20. Box 300, Waldobora ME 04572 (207-832-389 school; 207-832-6321 greenhouse), is a seed-savers program run by biology students at Medomak High School; they research and grow each heirloom, save the seed, and distribute it through a free catalog. Donations accepted.

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